Gee wiz! I have had a difficult time the last few days. I just got over the WORST 24hour flu of my life. Everyone in my family caught it, and it even hospitalized my host mother for 2 days. Anyway! I am about a month into my Peace Corps training and I am ready to provide an assessment. From what I can tell so far, I am a big fan of the Peace Corps. I am surprised and happy that the United States Government has created and funded such a progressive organization. Not only is the education offered to me thus far suburb, the approach to sustainable development is spot on. My education- the language classes in particular- have taught me more in the first month than I learned in an entire intensive course back in university.
I am excited about the next two years, and I can already feel that it is the type of education that is going to point me in a decisive direction. I also miss home something bad. I started going through all my pictures of my laptop last night and I started feeling so sad! I did not expect to gain such a clear understanding so soon that my identity is firmly rooted in home.
29 August 2007
23 August 2007
August 21, 2007
August 21, 2007
Today was a special day. Our class took a field trip to Kustindel, the largest city in the area with over 50,000 people. That’s a shocker when I live in a village only 16 square kilometers. Kustindel is known from many things, but the two most important are its natural hot springs and ancient Roman ruins. The hot springs feed into numerous public baths throughout the city and the Roman ruins are perfect for picnics. Aside from a quick climb on a 2,000-year-old wall, none of that was on my agenda. Instead, today was the day that I got to see two examples of the types of work sites I get to pick from for my permanent which I will move to in ten weeks and live in for two to three years
The first stop was an orphanage (dom) for children aged 3-7 years. (note: In Bulgaria there is not a foster care system. Here, when children are removed from the families they are sent to the ‘dom.’ Also, many children in this system have been given up by their parents because the family can not afford to properly care for their child. It is for these reasons that what Americans think of as a orphanage cannot adequately describe this institution. We call it a dom.) There were ten of us trainees visiting today. As we walked down the driveway to the gates of the dom the 29 children saw us and ran to the gate screaming. When we walked through the gates they were so excited that they started jumping all over us. We have a good 20 minutes of play with the kids before we went inside for a tour. The kids were so precious. Many were very engaging, wanting us to dance with them or push them in little cars or bikes. One little boy walked up to me when I was kneeling down on the ground. In Bulgarian I said hi and asked his name. He did not respond, so I pointed to my self saying “Az sum Shaun, a via?” (my name is Shaun, what’s yours?). He still said nothing, rather he looked up at me and put his arms around my neck and buried his head in my shoulder. Another child attempted to take my glasses, and when he failed at that he tried to take my wristwatch off of me. I can most certainly see myself working at this type of place.
Next we stopped at a local NGO (non governmental organization) that focused on the problem of human trafficking in Bulgaria. Peace Corps Volunteers (PVCs) seem to fill many different roles working in NGO’s across Bulgaria. Many use experiences from the States in direct care to offer different perspectives on programs, help with English grant writing, or simply help with organization and management. I am interested in this type of work for several reasons. First, In addition to my direct care experience, I have a background in fundraising, office management, and community and volunteer organizing from working on campaigns. Second, I would absolutely love the experience of learning to work within the frameworks of the European Union in such a new member state. And finally, I think that this type of position and experience could help me professionally once I leave the Peace Corps. I know that this type of placement will also be challenging for me in particular. First, I worry about my own competence. Do I have the experience necessary to bring something productive to the table? Second I worry about the idleness of this type of office job. Will the slow pace of doing business in Bulgaria bum me out?
Today was a special day. Our class took a field trip to Kustindel, the largest city in the area with over 50,000 people. That’s a shocker when I live in a village only 16 square kilometers. Kustindel is known from many things, but the two most important are its natural hot springs and ancient Roman ruins. The hot springs feed into numerous public baths throughout the city and the Roman ruins are perfect for picnics. Aside from a quick climb on a 2,000-year-old wall, none of that was on my agenda. Instead, today was the day that I got to see two examples of the types of work sites I get to pick from for my permanent which I will move to in ten weeks and live in for two to three years
The first stop was an orphanage (dom) for children aged 3-7 years. (note: In Bulgaria there is not a foster care system. Here, when children are removed from the families they are sent to the ‘dom.’ Also, many children in this system have been given up by their parents because the family can not afford to properly care for their child. It is for these reasons that what Americans think of as a orphanage cannot adequately describe this institution. We call it a dom.) There were ten of us trainees visiting today. As we walked down the driveway to the gates of the dom the 29 children saw us and ran to the gate screaming. When we walked through the gates they were so excited that they started jumping all over us. We have a good 20 minutes of play with the kids before we went inside for a tour. The kids were so precious. Many were very engaging, wanting us to dance with them or push them in little cars or bikes. One little boy walked up to me when I was kneeling down on the ground. In Bulgarian I said hi and asked his name. He did not respond, so I pointed to my self saying “Az sum Shaun, a via?” (my name is Shaun, what’s yours?). He still said nothing, rather he looked up at me and put his arms around my neck and buried his head in my shoulder. Another child attempted to take my glasses, and when he failed at that he tried to take my wristwatch off of me. I can most certainly see myself working at this type of place.
Next we stopped at a local NGO (non governmental organization) that focused on the problem of human trafficking in Bulgaria. Peace Corps Volunteers (PVCs) seem to fill many different roles working in NGO’s across Bulgaria. Many use experiences from the States in direct care to offer different perspectives on programs, help with English grant writing, or simply help with organization and management. I am interested in this type of work for several reasons. First, In addition to my direct care experience, I have a background in fundraising, office management, and community and volunteer organizing from working on campaigns. Second, I would absolutely love the experience of learning to work within the frameworks of the European Union in such a new member state. And finally, I think that this type of position and experience could help me professionally once I leave the Peace Corps. I know that this type of placement will also be challenging for me in particular. First, I worry about my own competence. Do I have the experience necessary to bring something productive to the table? Second I worry about the idleness of this type of office job. Will the slow pace of doing business in Bulgaria bum me out?
August 16, 2007
August 16, 2007
So I have had a few more days to settle in here. My language skills are improving dramatically. It feels amazing to finally be able to communicate a full thought.
Each day is so full, and my ability to laugh at myself during each mistake, misunderstanding, and cultural exchange is improving.
For breakfast today I climbed a ladder in my backyard and cut a bunch of green grapes growing from the vines covering the back yard.
August 11, 2007
August 11, 2007
This is a picture of the view out my bedroom window, and then of my Peace Corps friends.
Today is my first day in Krynisti, where I live with my host parents Vasil and Yodanka. Maika (mother) Yodanka is a joyful older woman who loves to cook. Bashta (father) Vasil is super nice as well. He drove me home from the peace corps office in Dupnista. He likes to drive upwards of 150 km/hour and it scares the shit out of me.
I woke up this morning around six. I live in a small village; about 2000 people ‘live’ here. I don’t think 2000 actually are here, but rather many are working in Italy. Anyway, I was told that Kyrnisti is a quiet place. Not so! You know those little toys that are round, you pull the handle and they say “the cow goes mooo…..the pig goes oink….. and so on? Yeah, that is what my room sounded like this morning. Of the many sounds that I could not identify, I heard roosters, cows, donkeys, dogs, horses. Oh, and sheep were being hearded down the street at about 7 am. But even the Mercedes (super machina!) pulling out of the next door garage has to wait.
When I woke I spent a couple of hours stretching. Leaving my room was a challenge as mini panic attacks abound here in Bulgaria. Taking each day at a time is the only way to get by. Sometimes I want time to stand still, I want to stop thinking, stop having to smile and repeat “da?!” after every sentence slammed in my direction by a Bulgarian. Then I breathe and I am amazed that I am here. I am proud that I have placed myself in the center of discovery, even when it feels like the center of disaster.
Vasil and I went to the bazaara in Dupnista today to buy fruits and chickens (kokoshtki). The bazaara was the biggest farmer’s market I have ever seen. I laugh when I remember how I made an effort to see my little Seattle farmers market one last time; like I will miss it. The kokoshtki bazaara was a trip. All these cages filled with birds of all colours. I got to pick one (edinie) and Vasil picked 4 (chetri) others. They were all stuffed into a box the size of my backpack.
When we got home Vasil, Yodanca and I went to their gardina to pick vegetables. To picture the Gardina, imagine the p- patches in Seattle; a space that the community has created for everyone to have a place to grow their own food. Now imagine that everybody in the town has a gardina the size of a p-patch with a chain link fence surrounding each. The gardinas are old, so they have well developed fruit trees as well as tomato (domati) plants as tall as me. We picked peppers, onions, black berries, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, and dill.
When we got home (11 am) my American friends (there are three other trainees in the village) arrived at the house with a current volunteer, Becky, who has been in Bulgaria for five months. Maika and Bashta were so excited that we were rushed down to the Basement for my first gosti. Gostis are parties that can, and do, happen all the time. It must be the national past time of Bulgaria. Maika wanted us to drink, and considering that it was still in the am, we all were skeptical. We got past having to drink Raika ( I will explain this later) and settled with a gin and tonic. At least when we drink store bought alcohol we can know the alcohol content. We had a blast, and now with Becky I could finally convey a full thought to my parents. Becky took us for a walk and about two hours later we returned for the second gosti of the day. This time it was lunch. They had prepared so much food. We had a salada (tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, peppers, sunflower oil and salt) two different kinds of roasted pepper dishes, a Bean soup called bop, melons, chocolad, and raika. Raika is a home made hard alcohol that is the strongest stuff you can drink and not die from immediately. I was feeling is off the first sip. It basically is moonshine made from grapes, fermented for seven years. Every house has their own distinctive rakkia that they are very proud of. After lunch, we had dessert. Dessert consisted of home made sweet red wine that had a bit of a bubble to it. I had one glass. After lunch, I walked my friend’s home. When I got home I took a two-hour nap, woke with a headache, and found that Gerorgi, my host brother, has returned from Italy (where he works) for two weeks. He took me for kafe (coffee) with his friends, which was awkward, more “da!?’s” .And head nods! In Bulgaria one nods his head yes as if he was nodding no and vice versa. Yodanca came and got me for dinner an hour later. Dinner was eggs, fried cheese, salada, and bread. Did I mention that I have forgotten what it means to be even slightly hungry? Raikia shaun? No maika. Shaun! Raika! Ne ne ne maika. Dovree shaun. Dovree. Tomorrow morning I am going to a Bulgarian wedding to dance the huro. Can anyone guess how many drinks I will be forced to consume before noon? After, we are going to a village in the mountains. I am not sure exactly what kind of village. All I was able to understand was that only old people live there and they have no running water or electricity.
Lecka nosht!
August 7, 2007
“My life is created as I narrate, and my memory grows stronger with writing; what I do not put in words on a page will be erased by time.”
-Isabel Allende
August 7, 2007
Today is the first full day of pre service training. My body is not sure what day it is, when I should eat food, when I should sleep. From what I understand, Seattle is 10 hours behind me. For example, now is 10:43 PM in these mountains in southwest Bulgaria and in Seattle is 12:43 pm. My emotions are volatile from the stress, the jet lag, and the newness.
We started learning Bulgarian today. The first step is learning the Cyrillic alphabet. I find it very frustrating right now to start leaning the language. The pressure is real, in two days we are meeting our host family; right now I am still trying to sound out vowels and constants.
I am noticing that my emotions drift between excitement, fear and doubt.
The best part of today was that I ordered tea completely in Bulgarian. It was a small step, but my biggest accomplishment thus far.
13 August 2007
Zravete!
Hello there! My internet is very limited right now. I am journaling on my laptop, but every now and then i can connect it to a internet source for updating. So much more to come.
03 August 2007
getting stuck
My flight from Seattle to San Francisco left at 7:40 am without me. I arrived at the airport about an hour before, and I just did not have enough time to get through the lines. I later made friend with a fellow stand bye, a young mother with an absolutely beautiful baby, who told me that a few weeks prior security had found wires hidden inside a block of cheese. Apparently the terrorists are testing our systems. Sea Tac is on high alert.
My luggage went to San Francisco, and then at 11am Pacific Time it went to Philadelphia. Philly is where I am trying to get. I got through security at 9am, and at that point the only way to get to Philly was through Denver. I stood standby for two flights to Denver, one at 9:30 and the other at 11:30. Both flights were so booked that by the time the 11:30 took off I was number 22 in the stand by line.
Some how United Airlines has neither a customer service desk nor a phone number to call to figure out what to do when the situation gets messy. This moment—at about 12:30—was the one moment that I almost lost control of myself. I have never flown stand by before, and the fact that I was making a connection confused me even more. I was in line to stand by for a 2pm flight to Denver but would I still be able get to Philadelphia? The Lady at the gate said maybe I should go to Chicago, and then she walked away. I had no idea what to do with this information, so I just walked in circles until I found nice man who checked and told me that there was no way I could get to Philly via Chicago or Denver and that he did not know what to do. Then HE walked away.
My flights are being arranged by Sato travel, a travel agency that deals with all military and government flights. I called them and they set me up with a red eye flight from Seattle to Philadelphia leaving at 11:30 pm and arriving in Philadelphia at 7:15 am eastern standard time.
Against all odds I actually have had a great day. I took a bus to downtown and bought lunch and then watched the new Simpson’s movie. I walked around downtown a bit and found my way to the new Seattle Art Museum. Today is the first Thursday of the month and accordingly admission to the museum was free. I finally returned to the airport around 6 pm. I bought a cup of coffee and read the newspaper. Over the intercom I heard an announcement about a flight to San Jose and suddenly I remembered that my friend Chris McCarter was flying to San Jose this very night. I picked up my stuff and rushed to towards the terminal I thought he would be in. After a minute of rushing I walked directly in front of him, and he jumped on me and gave me a big hug. His flight boarded at 8:15. We made our way to a restaurant and ate fries and drank a beer. I walked him to his gate and we had a few minutes to talk. Since we already said our goodbyes this encounter was easy, painless and reaffirmed that me are forever friends.
I am now sitting at my gate, 30 minutes from boarding.
I just finished Song of Solomon by Toni Morrison. I highly recommend it.
My luggage went to San Francisco, and then at 11am Pacific Time it went to Philadelphia. Philly is where I am trying to get. I got through security at 9am, and at that point the only way to get to Philly was through Denver. I stood standby for two flights to Denver, one at 9:30 and the other at 11:30. Both flights were so booked that by the time the 11:30 took off I was number 22 in the stand by line.
Some how United Airlines has neither a customer service desk nor a phone number to call to figure out what to do when the situation gets messy. This moment—at about 12:30—was the one moment that I almost lost control of myself. I have never flown stand by before, and the fact that I was making a connection confused me even more. I was in line to stand by for a 2pm flight to Denver but would I still be able get to Philadelphia? The Lady at the gate said maybe I should go to Chicago, and then she walked away. I had no idea what to do with this information, so I just walked in circles until I found nice man who checked and told me that there was no way I could get to Philly via Chicago or Denver and that he did not know what to do. Then HE walked away.
My flights are being arranged by Sato travel, a travel agency that deals with all military and government flights. I called them and they set me up with a red eye flight from Seattle to Philadelphia leaving at 11:30 pm and arriving in Philadelphia at 7:15 am eastern standard time.
Against all odds I actually have had a great day. I took a bus to downtown and bought lunch and then watched the new Simpson’s movie. I walked around downtown a bit and found my way to the new Seattle Art Museum. Today is the first Thursday of the month and accordingly admission to the museum was free. I finally returned to the airport around 6 pm. I bought a cup of coffee and read the newspaper. Over the intercom I heard an announcement about a flight to San Jose and suddenly I remembered that my friend Chris McCarter was flying to San Jose this very night. I picked up my stuff and rushed to towards the terminal I thought he would be in. After a minute of rushing I walked directly in front of him, and he jumped on me and gave me a big hug. His flight boarded at 8:15. We made our way to a restaurant and ate fries and drank a beer. I walked him to his gate and we had a few minutes to talk. Since we already said our goodbyes this encounter was easy, painless and reaffirmed that me are forever friends.
I am now sitting at my gate, 30 minutes from boarding.
I just finished Song of Solomon by Toni Morrison. I highly recommend it.
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